EXPLORING THE NEIGHBORHOOD

I (Elizabeth) LOVE African markets. I love the winding dirt paths and stalls stuffed with plastic, metal and fabric wares- everything you need to run a proper home here. I love the search for that “one thing” that I need or want- asking in my broken version of the local language supplemented with a broad pantomiming that always makes the gathering crowd laugh.

Last weekend I was wandering around our neighborhood here in Gondar, chatting with the tuck-shop owners and waving hi to the kids, when I found my new favorite market spot.

The market seemed to have everything, so I decided to ask again about the local hand spindles (in Amharic: ‘inzert’) . My hobby at home is spinning and knitting, and one of the things that fascinates me about Ethiopia is the living history of cotton spinning and weaving. In previous trips to the heart of the city, however, I had been unable to get my hands on an inzert.

Two boys were following me, so I decided to ask them. “Inzert alleh?” (“are there spindles here?”) The boys nodded enthusiastically and led me through several winding aisles of market stalls, to the very back, where a single stall appeared to sell spices and incense only. 

When we arrived the boys yelled “inzert!”, and the proprietress uncovered a stash of seven or eight small, local spindles. “Snt naw?” I asked “how much”. “4 Birr”- about 17 cents each.

Women who ran the nearby stalls started to gather, wondering what this foreigner would want with a local hand spindle. There were lots of laughs and smiles as I tried to pantomime that I, too, used a spindle to make yarn.

The stall also sold cotton for spinning, so I loaded up with two big bags full. the spindles were crude, and were missing a hook at the top- essential for use. Easily fixed with a stick and a pocket knife, I reasoned.

As I walked home, more women saw the spindle and cotton in my bag and asked me, laughing, if I knew what to do with them. I wished I could demonstrate, but without the homemade hook, I couldn’t do much. I was trying to communicate this when one of the women invited me into a large building used for milling teff, the local grain. She understood about the hook and pulled out a small branch with large thorns- perfect for adding to my spindle. She took the spindle and split the top, added a whittled thorn, and sanded it until it was perfectly wedged into place. Meanwhile, the kids hanging around were practicing their English as I waited. 

Evidently this is my name “Eliza” spelled in Amharic script.

Evidently this is my name “Eliza” spelled in Amharic script.

When my spindle was finished it was ready for spinning. the Ethiopian way of holding a spindle is much different that what I am used to, and the group of women which had gathered laughed as they watched me try to make a cotton string. I am eager to incorporate their demonstrations as I learn to spin the Ethiopian way. I’ll update you with my progress!

The finished spindle, among bales of teff grain.

OUR LOVE FOR FUL

Elizabeth and I have discovered a breakfast dish called ful that we absolutely love! It is comprised of cooked fava beans, accompanied with a side of onions, tomatoes, garlic, and jalapenos. It is served with bread, which you dip into the ful, similar to the way you would eat crackers with hummus.

Elizabeth and I joke that we both wake up in the mornings dreaming of ful. There is a place right next to the guesthouse, where we have become morning regulars. Our order usually consists of 2 macchiatos and ful – yum! This usually comes out to about $25 birr, equating to only $1 dollar! What’s not to love?

This morning we woke up and went to our local spot, but they were not serving ful (perhaps due to the power outage). A man overheard our request and accompanied us to his friend’s spot up the street that serves ful. We sat down in her small, tarp-enclosed shop and ordered ful and coffee. We were enjoying the sunny weather, chatting about the news, and laughing. A few men walked in and sat down next to us, also ordering ful for breakfast. One of the men asked us where we were from and sparked conversation. He loves poetry and asked if we knew Emily Dickinson. We said yes, and he replied that he loves her poetry, specifically her poem about friendship. He then proceeded to recite this poem for us.

I was impressed by his poem recitation. The conversation continued and he asked if we liked Ethiopian music. We responded saying we hadn’t heard much yet, but would love to. He said his favorite artist is Teddy Afro and that we must look him up. He wrote down Teddy’s name in my notebook.

After finishing up our conversation and paying for our meal, Elizabeth and I walked to work. I walked away from this breakfast feeling relaxed and uplifted. It was a beautiful, sunny morning and we just ate a delicious breakfast, while enjoying a pleasant conversation with locals. Mornings in Gondar are my favorite time of day. The weather is perfect, sunny yet brisk, and everyone is walking up and down the streets and setting up their shops. People seem alert and awake, but at the same time the city feels calm and peaceful.

HOME IMPROVEMENT

As part of the SCOPE fellowship, Sheldon and I are housed in the University of Gondar Guest House. The guest house is comprised of about twenty apartments encircling a shady courtyard, filled with tall, swaying trees and constant songbird trills. Sheldon and I share a two-bedroom apartment with a balcony, sitting room, and basic kitchen.

Judy, a British teacher who has called the Guest House home for years, told us that in prior years, the units were filled with volunteers and researchers from around the world, and that impromptu potlucks and games of volleyball were common. Unfortunately, most of those ex-pats left Gondar during a period of political turbulence last year, leaving Judy as the only foreign presence. Gondar is safe again, and the volunteers and trickling back in, Judy said, but it is still too quiet here.

Immediately upon unpacking, Sheldon and I made mental lists of things to fix and change at the apartment. Most of the lightbulbs were dead, and all of the light fixtures covering them were so grimy as to obscure the light. Several new lightbulbs and a mass-scrubbing of the light fixtures brought illumination to our space. We rearranged our balcony and installed a clothesline, creating a relaxing and utilitarian space to watch the songbirds flit from tree to tree. We bought buckets and filled them with water to have on hand during the inevitable water outages to come. The previous SCOPE fellow, Pan, left several bags of kitchen supplies with Judy, which we were thrilled to unpack and organize on our spare kitchen shelves.

The electricity has been off for two days now (evidently, a problem with the transformer that is affecting the whole neighborhood). We strung battery powered “fairy lights” on the walls and relaxed by candlelight. Since there is no ETA on the return of power, and we rely on electricity for warm(ish) water, my project for this afternoon will be to buy a small charcoal burner for heating pots of water on the balcony for tea and showers.

Our apartment is beginning to feel like home. We wake every morning to the wail from the nearby Mosque and to the birdsong. As we settle into a routine in Gondar, it is good to have a comfortable, ‘home base’, to recharge before we set off for a new day’s work.

Sheldon relaxing on our balcony at the guesthouse

AN UNEXPECTED CULTURAL EXPERIENCE

Elizabeth and I just had an amazing unexpected cultural experience. We decided to explore the center of the city, the piassa, to check out the Arada market and walk around. On our way to the market, we stopped by a little shop to purchase locks so that we can keep our valuables safe at the guesthouse. The man selling locks, Muleye, spoke perfect English and immediately sparked conversation with us. He was wearing a Peace Corps shirt that was given to him by his friend who was a Peace Corps volunteer last year. Unfortunately, his friend was forced to evacuate Gondar due to the political violence going on last June.

When we asked Muleye for directions to the Arada market, he insisted on taking us himself. The market is a very vibrant and busy place – shops of all kinds, goats in the street, women carrying chickens for sale, children playing, etc. The shops ranged from basic goods, such as kitchen supplies and clothes, to hand-made pottery, cultural clothing, and spices. It was nice having Muleye to show us around; you could easily get lost in the Arada market.

Elizabeth mentioned to Muleye that she enjoyed knitting and spinning cotton and was hoping to find a traditional spindle. Muleye asked around, but since it was a Sunday and some vendors were closed, we could not find a spindle at the market. Instead, he decided to take us to his grandmother’s home, who is an incredibly talented spinner. She is a nun and lives in a small, thatched roof home very close to St. Gabriel’s church. She is a peaceful, sweet, and fragile old woman. We entered her home and she showed us her spools of cotton and some of the fabric that has been created from it. With this fabric, she makes traditional clothing that is given to a male as a gift on his wedding day. It is very soft and beautiful.

It was really special to be welcomed into Muleye’s grandmother’s home. Prior to leaving, she insisted we eat some of her boiled potatoes with chili powder. Each of us grabbed a potato from the pot, peeled it, added a bit of chili powder, and ate it. She could peel a potato in 5 seconds

Learning a bit about Muleye’s grandmother’s life and seeing her home was a truly unexpected cultural experience. It’s amazing how a common interest (spinning and knitting) can lead to such vibrant, rich cultural exchanges. This experience gave me a glimpse into the life of an elderly nun in the community. I also thought it was special to see the differences in generations and how Muleye interacted with his grandmother. He has an immense amount of love and respect for her.

A FEW THOUGHTS FROM THE PLANE

Elizabeth and I met up in Los Angeles airport at gate 68B. We are currently sitting on the plane in Dublin airport as we refuel for the final leg of our trip to Addis. The past few days were hectic planning, packing, running last minute errands, and saying goodbye to friends and family. Now that all the preparation is over, all I feel is excitement for our arrival in Gondar. I can’t wait to see the city, meet the study team, get settled, and start working.

Elizabeth and I were accepted as SCOPE fellows in February and have spent the past 4 months pondering this fellowship and mentally preparing for the work we hope to accomplish during our 6 months in Gondar. Our departure date has finally arrived and I’m eager to translate our designated projects into action.

I feel incredibly grateful to be a part of the FLAME study team. I strongly believe in the power of this program and am thrilled to take part in its design and implementation. I know I am going to learn and grow as a global health professional throughout my SCOPE fellowship and I am thankful for this opportunity.

Above all else, I cannot wait to meet the study team and work together. I know they are a group of talented, smart individuals and I can only hope I will offer the team half as much as they will inevitably teach me. I’m excited to put a face to their names and get to know them on a professional and personal level. We’re taking off now – see you soon!

PREPARING TO DEPART

In an hour I will be on a plane- the first of three in the 24-hour-plus journey to Gondar. I’ve sent my bags through and cleared security, and I have an hour here, of peace and quiet in the terminal, before embarking on this next big adventure.

This journey started in December, when I applied to the SCOPE fellowship. The selection team is diligent- scrutinizing transcripts, letters of recommendation, and past experiences. In the interview, I described how eager I was to join such a dynamic  project. I was looking to return to East Africa, and was ready to work hard. In January I was thrilled to learn that I would be working together with Sheldon, my classmate and friend.

In March, we began learning more about the SCOPE and FLAME projects. There were meetings, memos, and endless e-mails. I visited the UW travel clinic for vaccinations and bottles of malaria medications.

During the Spring, Sheldon and I presented our work plans with the SCOPE team at UW and with supporters in the local faith community. While completing a full load of graduate school coursework, I worked on the team compiling the survey we will use to assess local health centers. My pile of “stuff for the trip”, from a UV water purifier to modest, breezy skirts, grew.

My Ethiopian Visa, necessary to work in the country, arrived after some tense delays. Meanwhile, the Ethiopian SCOPE team was busy ensuring everything would be ready for our arrival.

After taking my last UW final exam, I packed up my belongings and stowed them away, ready to relax for a few days with my parents before leaving.

I grew up only a mile from SeaTac airport, so every time I am here I feel like something has come full circle. Last night my parents and I walked along the waterfront in Des Moines as a family, in what has become a pre-departure ritual in my trips abroad. It was just right- warm and sunny- the best of Seattle days.

In a few days I will be enjoying the best of Ethiopian days- warm hospitality, new friendships, and community- all in the light of the same sun.

I look forward to keeping you updated over the next six months and beyond!

COMING SOON: SCOPE STORIES FROM GRADUATE FELLOWS ELIZABETH KARMAN AND SHELDON HALSTED

Next week SCOPE fellows Elizabeth and Sheldon will embark on their six month journey in Gondar, Ethiopia.  Both Masters of Public Health students will work on SCOPE’s Faith Leaders Advocating for Maternal Empowerment (FLAME) project under the supervision of Dr. Getahun Asres at the University of Gondar in Ethiopia.  Follow their journey as they navigate the Ethiopian healthcare system and lend their skills in quantitative and qualitative research methods to the team.

Elizabeth Karman

Sheldon Halsted